Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)
Bearded dragons come from Eastern Australia. They can grow up to 50 cm (1.5
feet) in length. They can live for up to 12 years in captivity.
Diet
They are omnivorous but take a greater percentage of herbivorous food as
they age. Juveniles will take a higher percentage of invertebrate prey such as
house crickets, black crickets and locusts. Waxworms and mealworms should be
given in moderation. Livefood should be gut loaded with a high calcium content
food (8% of calcium in the dry matter) and many products are commercially
available. It is worth checking the label for the calcium content. Livefood
should also be dusted with a high calcium balancer with no or minimal
phosphorous content. Livefood should be fed immediately after dusting and eaten
promptly. Dark leafy salad items and weeds should be the main vegetable matter
offered and this also needs to be dusted with a calcium
supplement.
Water
Water should always be available and a container is required which will
allow the lizard to submerge completely. This should be changed daily.
Accommodation requirements
- A large a
vivarium as possible should be provided, but at least 120 cm (4 feet) long
x 60 cm (2 feet high) and 60 cm (2 feet) deep. This is required to enable
a thermal gradient to be created along the length of the tank (hot to
cold). Wooden or fibreglass vivaria are ideal as this provides the lizard
with some visual security and ventilation can be provided at lizard level.
- Reptiles
are ectothermic so a heat source is required. Typically a spot area is
created using a spot bulb, providing a
basking temperature of 400C. This should be kept on all day.
Temperatures should be measured to ensure the tank is not overheating. The
cool end should be maintained at 250C.
Background heat can be provided with a heat mat (on the back wall) a tubular heater, a heat plate or a ceramic bulb.
This should be set on a thermostat so that the overnight temperature does
not drop below 250C. The temperatures should be measured with a
maximum/minimum thermometer. During the cold winter months careful
checking is required to ensure the heat sources are keeping the tank
sufficiently warm. Heat sources should be guarded to prevent thermal
burns.
- Bearded
dragons must be exposed to UV-b light. The best sources are the mercury
vapour lamps which give out heat as well. This will need to be on all day
for 12 hours and at a distance of 30 cm (1 foot) from the lizard. A small
branch or rock can be placed below the basking site. It is important to
get the basking temperature correct. The mercury vapour lamps cannot be
fitted to a thermostat. These lamps should be checked regularly for their
UV output and should be changed at least annually.
- Good
ventilation is required and many commercial vivaria are lacking good
ventilation. Additional ventilation holes may need to be created.
- Hides are
required to provide some security. Artificial
plants, cardboard boxes, plant
pots, logs or commercially available hides can be used. They should be
placed both at the warm and cooler ends of the tank.
- Substrates
suitable for housing lizards include newspaper, Astroturf and some of the
commercially available substrates. It is important that the substrates
either cannot be eaten, or if they are, do not cause blockages as this can
prove fatal. Wood chip based substrates should never be used for this
reason.
- The
vivarium should be cleaned out at least once a week to help prevent
disease and a suitable disinfectant used.
Companions
- In general
the happiest lizard is the solitary lizard. Adults can be maintained in
pairs or a harem.
- All
reptiles can potentially carry Salmonella.
- However it
is rarely a cause of illness and treatment is not required.
- It can be
transmitted to people and good hygiene after handing the reptile is
important. Generally washing your hands in soap is sufficient. There are
commercially available disinfectants that can be used as an alternative.
Salmonella
- All reptiles
can potentially carry Salmonella.
- However it
is rarely a cause of illness and treatment is not required.
- It can be
transmitted to people and good hygiene after handing the reptile is
important. Generally washing your hands in soap is sufficient. There are
commercially available disinfectants that can be used as an alternative.
Parasites
- Internal
parasites are common but it is important to check what parasites are
present as both pinworms and coccidiosis are commonly found and the
treatments vary. It is best to get a faecal sample checked by your vet.
- Cryptosporidium
is one that is of concern and special stains are required to detect if it
is present.
Signs of ill health – call your vet if you see any of these
- Anorexia –
although lizards can go for a little while without eating it is important
to get the lizard looked at early so that husbandry corrections or
treatment can be started as it can take time for the lizard to respond.
- Dysecdysis
– shedding problems are commonly seen and this can be due to husbandry
problems or a sign of ill health.
- Poor
growth – There are a number of reasons for a lizard to grow poorly and if
your lizard is not growing it should be presented to your vet.
- Stomatitis
– in many beardies dental disease can develop over time if fed on a poor
diet and if there is any discolouration of the mouth veterinary advice
should be sought.
- Metabolic
bone disease – this is sadly still very common. Lizards may have
difficulty moving around and feeding. It is important to get these checked
out early on so that treatment can be started.
- Reproductive
disease – many females can collapse while trying to produce eggs. It is
important that these are presented promptly to your vet for medical or
surgical treatment.
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